One setting for the whole face is where most people go wrong.
Setting your Dr. Pen microneedling pen to one depth and one speed for the whole face is the simplest way to start. It also ignores how much the skin changes from one area to the next. This guide covers which depth and speed suit each part of the face, how deep we would go at home and how to tell when a setting was too much. If you use a derma roller instead, our guide to choosing a derma roller needle length covers fixed lengths and what each one is for.
Why one depth does not suit the whole face
Skin thickness varies far more across the face than most people expect. A 2025 high frequency ultrasound study measuring skin thickness at 38 points across the face found the skin over the upper eyelid was roughly a third of the thickness of the skin at the tip of the nose. The temples, upper lip and chin all measured differently again.
A single setting does not land the same way everywhere. The same depth reaches proportionally further into thin skin than it does into thicker skin. That is the reason the eye area needs the lightest touch while the cheeks and jawline can take a little more.
What depth actually means on a microneedling pen
The number on your pen shows how far the cartridge needles extend. It is not a guarantee of how far they travel into the skin. Pressing harder, working over a bony area or stretching the skin flat all change what the skin actually receives, so light pressure matters as much as the setting itself.
A microneedling pen also enters the skin vertically, which means the same depth feels more noticeable than it does on a roller. Our comparison of the derma roller, derma stamp and Dr. Pen explains why.
How deep we would go at home
Every Dr. Pen microneedling pen in our range adjusts well beyond what most people need. The M7S, M8S, A11 and M9 go up to 2.5mm and the Q2 goes up to 1.5mm. That extra range is there for professional use.
On the face at home, we don't recommend going beyond 0.75mm. Going deeper does not bring better results. It brings more downtime. The skin gets most of what it needs from consistent, well spaced sessions at moderate depths.
Depth by area
Around the eye, stay at 0.25mm and work only on the orbital bone, the bony ring around the eye. Use a stamping or light tapping motion rather than gliding the pen. Keep well away from the eyelid and the soft under eye area itself.
On the forehead, the bridge and sides of the nose, the upper lip and the neck, work between 0.25mm and 0.5mm. The skin here is thinner or sits close to bone. Start at 0.25mm and only move up once your skin settles quickly after a session. For general facial work, including the neck, we recommend the 18 pin cartridge.
Around the upper lip and nose, where the skin curves, a stamping motion gives you more control than gliding. Stamping is also the easiest technique to learn on any area if you are new to using a microneedling pen.
On the cheeks and jawline, work between 0.5mm and 0.75mm. This is where the skin is thicker and where texture, visible pores and acne scarring tend to show most. Start at 0.5mm and build towards 0.75mm over a few sessions if your skin recovers well. Even for established scarring, we don't recommend going beyond 0.75mm at home.
On the scalp, 0.5mm to 0.75mm is the range to work in. Scalp skin is thicker than facial skin. The 36 pin cartridge is the one we recommend for hair growth sessions. Our guide to scalp microneedling at home covers the full technique.
Speed by area
Speed controls how fast the cartridge needles move up and down. Lower speeds give you more precision where the skin is thinner and more sensitive. Higher speeds create more controlled micro channels where the skin is thicker. The M7S, M8S, M8 Max, A11 and M9 all have six speed settings. The Q2 has five.
Low speeds, 1 to 3, suit the eye area, the neck and the lips. They are also where we suggest beginners start. Around the eye you stamp rather than glide, so a low speed gives you control without any risk of drag. Medium speeds, 4 and 5, suit general facial work across the cheeks. The highest setting suits thicker skin areas such as the forehead, the jawline and the scalp.
In short: 1 to 3 around the eyes and other sensitive areas, 4 to 5 for most of the face, the top setting where the skin is thicker.
How depth and speed work together
The two settings work as a pair rather than separately. The forehead is a good example: the skin sits close to bone, so the depth stays shallow, while a higher speed keeps each pass smooth. Deeper settings on the cheeks generally pair best with a medium speed or above, which keeps the pen gliding rather than dragging.
Change your settings as you move from one area to the next rather than keeping one for the whole face. On most of our pens you adjust depth by turning the depth ring once the pen is switched on and change speed by pressing the power button. The M9 uses a one touch smart control button for both. Whatever the setting, avoid going over the same area more than two or three times in a session.
Nano needling is the exception
Nano cartridges work differently from standard depth cartridges. They do not reach the dermis or create micro injuries, so there is no downtime. Their job is to help serums absorb more deeply rather than to drive new collagen. That is why nano needling can be used up to three times a week if you choose, including between standard sessions. Standard depth microneedling is different and should be spaced every four to six weeks to give the skin time to repair.
A note for darker skin tones
Deeper skin tones are more prone to pigmentation after inflammation, known as post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. That means staying at the shallower end of each range, building depth up more slowly and being strict with SPF every morning afterwards. If you are unsure how your skin will respond, start with a small area before moving to the full face.
How to tell a setting was too much
Some redness straight after a session is expected and normal. It usually feels like mild sunburn and settles within one to three days, sometimes with light flaking as the skin renews. If redness lasts longer than that, the skin feels raw or sore or you see more than the odd pinpoint of blood, the setting was too much for that area. Use a shallower depth in your next session. Any signs of infection, such as heat, swelling or weeping, are a reason to stop and speak to your GP.
Before and after each session
Cleanse the skin and spritz the area with a hypochlorous acid spray before you start. Fit a brand new sealed cartridge every session, since cartridges are always single use. During the session a hyaluronic acid serum helps the pen glide. Our guide to what to apply after microneedling explains how skin boosters fit in at different depths.
Afterwards, avoid retinol, vitamin C and exfoliating acids for at least 48 hours and apply SPF 30 or higher the following morning. Our microneedling aftercare and hygiene guide covers every step. Our complete guide to microneedling is the place to start if you are new to it.
Common questions
What depth should I use on my face with a Dr. Pen?
It depends on the area. We suggest 0.25mm on the orbital bone around the eye, 0.25mm to 0.5mm on the forehead, nose, upper lip and neck and 0.5mm to 0.75mm on the cheeks and jawline. At home we don't recommend going beyond 0.75mm on the face.
Can I use different depths in one session?
Yes. It is one of the main advantages of a microneedling pen over a fixed derma roller. Adjust the depth and speed as you move from one area of the face to the next rather than using one setting throughout.
What speed should I use on my Dr. Pen?
Low speeds of 1 to 3 suit the eye area, neck, lips and beginners. Medium speeds of 4 and 5 suit general facial work. The highest setting suits thicker skin such as the forehead, jawline and scalp.
Is 0.25mm deep enough to make a difference?
Yes. At 0.25mm the main benefit is better absorption of the serum you apply, with very little downtime. It is also the right depth for the area around the eye and a sensible place for beginners to start before building up.
How often can I microneedle with a Dr. Pen?
Standard depth sessions should be spaced every four to six weeks so the skin has time to repair. Nano needling does not create micro injuries, so it can be used up to three times a week if you choose.
As an official UK supplier of Dr. Pen, we stock the full range of genuine pens and single use cartridges, from the Dr. Pen M8S to the rest of our microneedling collection. If you are not sure which depth or speed to start with for your skin, get in touch at help@purederma.co.uk and we will help you find your starting point.
