There is a question we get asked a lot, usually by someone who has just started using a face mask and noticed the near infrared setting does not appear to be doing anything. Red and near infrared sit next to each other on every spec sheet, ours included, which makes them look like one feature.
They are two separate wavelengths aimed at two different depths of skin. One is visible. The other is not, which is where most of the confusion starts.
Red LED light at 630nm and what it does
Red LED light sits at the visible end of the spectrum, around 630nm, which is why you can watch your skin glow red for the length of a session. It reaches into the dermis, the layer beneath the skin's surface, where it is the most researched wavelength in LED light therapy.
Red LED light is associated with supporting collagen and elastin production, which in turn is linked to the appearance of firmer, smoother skin and softer fine lines with consistent use.
Near infrared at 850nm and why you cannot see it
Near infrared sits just past what the human eye can register, around 850nm, which surprises a lot of people the first time they use a face mask and expect to see it working the same way red LED light does.
Because the wavelength is longer, it scatters less as it travels through tissue and reaches further than red LED light does, past the dermis into muscle and connective tissue. Near infrared is associated with supporting circulation and helping with the kind of low level inflammation that shows up as puffiness or dullness rather than as a visible line.
Why depth is the real difference, not strength
It is tempting to assume the wavelength that goes deeper is simply the stronger one. That isn't quite right. Longer wavelengths are absorbed less by the water, melanin and blood in the upper layers of skin, so they travel further before losing their energy. Shorter wavelengths are absorbed more readily near the surface, which is exactly where red LED light's target tissue sits.
Neither wavelength is stronger than the other. They are aimed at different depths on purpose.
What each is generally suited to
Red LED light's research base centres mainly on the outer and mid layers of the dermis, covering the appearance of fine lines, tone and firmness. Near infrared's research base centres mainly on deeper concerns, including circulation support and helping the skin recover from the kind of low level inflammation that sits below what you can see directly.
Most of what people actually want from an LED routine, calmer, firmer, more even looking skin, draws on both layers rather than one alone. A placebo controlled split face clinical study on LED phototherapy for skin rejuvenation using red and near infrared wavelengths together measured improvements in wrinkles and skin elasticity, alongside increased collagen in the treated skin.
Do you need both, or is one enough
For most people, both. Skin concerns rarely confine themselves neatly to a single depth, which is why our LED Light Therapy Face Mask runs near infrared independently alongside whichever colour wavelength you select, rather than asking you to pick one over the other.
You can see the actual irradiance figures for red LED light and near infrared side by side and how they translate into an energy dose over a session, in our guide to how LED energy dose is calculated.
Where both wavelengths end up doing the same job
Red LED light and near infrared take different routes into the skin. They arrive at the same place. Both are absorbed by an enzyme in the mitochondria called cytochrome c oxidase, which is the point where light becomes usable cellular energy.
That process has a name, photobiomodulation. It is the reason either wavelength does anything at all. We cover it in full in our guide to what photobiomodulation actually means. The wavelength decides the depth. The mechanism waiting at the end of the journey is shared.
The same logic across the rest of the range
Depth is why the range is built the way it is. Our LED Red Light Therapy Neck and Chest Mask applies the same wavelengths to skin that ages visibly but tends to get far less attention than the face.
Our LED Hair Growth Cap pairs red light with deeper infrared wavelengths because the target sits below the surface at the follicle rather than on the skin itself. The tissue changes. The reasoning does not.
Reading the numbers instead of guessing
A wavelength number on its own only tells you which depth of tissue a device is aimed at. It says nothing about whether enough light is actually reaching that tissue to do anything, which comes down to irradiance and session length rather than the nanometre figure alone.
It is also worth knowing that not every face mask claiming red and infrared is delivering either wavelength accurately. Our guide to telling clinical grade LED apart from RGB light covers how to check before you buy.
Red LED light shows its work. Near infrared asks you to trust the spec sheet instead, which is exactly why we publish ours.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between red LED light and near infrared light?
Red LED light, around 630nm, is visible and works mainly in the upper dermis, associated with supporting collagen and skin tone. Near infrared, around 850nm, is invisible to the eye and reaches deeper into muscle and connective tissue, associated with circulation and recovery.
Why can I not see the near infrared light working?
Near infrared sits just beyond the visible spectrum, so the light itself isn't something the eye can register even though the face mask is actively delivering it. This is normal and doesn't mean the wavelength isn't active.
Do I need near infrared as well as red LED light, or is one enough?
Most skin concerns sit across more than one layer, so using both together covers a broader range than either wavelength alone. This is why LED face masks that include near infrared run it independently alongside a colour wavelength rather than replacing it.
Which wavelength is better for anti ageing?
Red LED light has the larger body of research specifically on collagen support and fine lines. Near infrared complements this by supporting deeper tissue recovery, so using both together addresses more of what ageing skin experiences than either wavelength alone.
Do red LED light and near infrared work the same way once they reach the skin?
Both are absorbed by the same enzyme in the mitochondria, cytochrome c oxidase, in a process called photobiomodulation. The wavelength decides how deep the light travels before that happens, which is why the two are used together rather than treated as interchangeable.
Is near infrared safe to use every day?
Near infrared does not carry the ionising radiation risks associated with UV light. As with any LED wavelength, the right frequency of use depends on your skin and the dose delivered, which our guide to how often to use an LED face mask covers in more detail.
If you want to talk through which wavelengths make sense for your skin, our UK buyer's guide walks through the full spec sheet and the whole LED light therapy range publishes its wavelength and irradiance figures. Our team is available seven days a week at help@purederma.co.uk.
